Moleroda Finishing Systems

Felts, abrasives, tools and equipment for polishing and deburring

Pendant Motor vs Micromotor System

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Which to Choose.. Pendant Motor vs Micromotor System?

It's a very common question, the choices can be dumbfounding. 

The key features where they differ:

  • A pendant motor has a flexible shaft while the Micromotor has a thin wire cable connecting the motor to the control box.

The flexible shaft has to be hung to prevent damage, this is fine in a workshop but can be tricky in a home or learning setting. It can be cumbersome to move and whilst flexible there is some restriction to movement. 

The micromotor cable however is very light and very flexible. It allows for greater accuracy of movement. 

  • Pendant Motor vs Micromotor System on Noise

The first thing customers note when using a micromotor for the first time is the noise level, they are quiet! We have customers who have smart jewellery showrooms with studios at the rear, quiet micromotor systems are a must to keep the pleasant atmosphere in the shop. Equally in the home this can be a major plus.

  • A Pendant Motor is often higher torque than a Micromotor

Torque is the amount of force put into rotation. Not all applications need the highest torque available. For Jewellers or Dental Technicians for example a Micromotor system will often have adequate torque. Wheels and burrs tend to be small and therefore need less torque.

For engineers, fabricators, sculptors etc they may need a bit more grunt and higher torque to drive larger wheels and points. 

  • Micromotors can offer higher speeds

Pendant Motors tend to be limited to 25,000 rpm (some more, some less), Micromotors however typically offer closer to 35,000 rpm. Some carbide burrs and cutters like to be run at higher speeds, small diameter burrs work well with the lower torque and high speeds. 

This makes them a good option for delicate jobs like stone setting, precision engineering and dental technician work.

  • Are Pendant Drills Heavier Duty?

For fabrication, large sculpture, engine tuning, engineering etc the best choice is normally a pendant motor. They are really built for slightly rougher treatment.

Certainly our LY128 system has proven over the years to be a sturdy workhorse with little going wrong with it. 

However in precision engineering environments our Eneska Micromotor system really holds it's own. They are very sturdy and can withstand long hours of use. For the user they are much more comfortable to use for prolonged periods. 

  • Vibration

Micromotors have noticeably less vibration. In a lot of industries now there are health and safety regulations on vibration. Micromotors tend to be the choice where this is a requirement. They are much more comfortable for operators to use for long shifts. For all users this is a plus point, the difference is very obvious.

  • Pendant Motor vs Micromotor System on Handpieces

Handpieces can often be the deciding factor, they are very much down to personal preference and application.

Generally speaking it simply depends on the brand and model of micromotor or pendant motor as to the extent of the handpieces available.  

Below you can see examples; in white pendant motor handpieces and blue micromotor handpieces. 

Our Foredom SR pendant motor comes with a choice of countless handpieces, the LY128 however is fixed and cannot be changed. A fixed handpiece often makes the price much more attractive and is a very useable option for most people. 

Similarly our very popular Strong 209 Micromotor comes with a fixed handpiece, it is larger overall but actually has a small end to it which is easier to hold and is pretty light with the cable.

Our modular micromotor systems such as Eneska (NSK) and Urawa offer a very large range of handpieces that range in size and features. Hammer handpieces and angled handpieces are available.

The beauty of micromotor handpieces is that they feature a quick release collet system in most cases making it quick to change between burrs. They normally have a collet system though which means drills and burrs need to be on a 2.35mm (or 1.6mm) minimum spindle where a chuck handpiece (such as on the LY128 pendant motor) can clasp very small drill bits and a range of spindle sizes. 

  • One final point on Micromotors

Micromotors are a revelation to a lot of people as the feel is something entirely different if you are used to a pendant motor (flex shaft). Operators report better feeling, without the drag of the flex shaft and the minimal vibration. You have more control.

It is possible to maintain better control with the stop start controls on some systems (Eneska). Speed can be set on some models. The start is much more gradual and smooth. Flex shafts are frequently said to jump as they start, although not always a problem for high precision work it is less than ideal. 

Micromotors work well at low speeds and run smoother. 

Pendant Motor vs Micromotor System:

Who Wins?

Its a good question, you may have found several points particularly important to you. The good news is that each option has a range of price points from entry level to industrial standard. 

If you still have questions please get in touch!

01722 711988

Polishing Flat Metal Surfaces

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The Bane of Most Jewellers Lives…Polishing Flat Metal Surfaces

Be it Aluminium, Silver, Steel or whatever.. Polishing Flat metal surfaces can be a beast to finish. Scratches are hard to remove without creating dips and ripples in the reflective surface. I often find that I avoid flat surfaces because I know they will take a lot of finishing.

So the other day when I made a pair of medals in Sterling Silver I thought it only right to show how I tackled the flat backs. What I would say is that this technique may not be for the novice with basic equipment, but for anyone looking to do a lot of flat polishing a set up such as this would save a great deal of time and fewer tantrums would ensue.

eneska 4-1 with right angle handpiece

This is our Eneska 4-1 Micromotor System which really is gutsy and very versatile. I used it with a right angle handpiece (JERA 270) for surface preparation and a straight handpiece for polishing.

**We also sell a foredom right angle handpiece which would also do the job for those with a Foredom Pendant Motor

I used a self adhesive disc holder and Silicon Carbide (Wet & Dry) self adhesive discs in 10mm diameter.

The stitched mops I used are here, I’d also recommend cotton yarn mops for a final finish.

amyrwyatt medals in progress

In reality most of us don’t have this sort of kit. My recommendations therefore:

  • Ensure the flattest finish possible before polishing. Use wet and dry paper, preferably on a flat surface. Get scratches out before polishing, trust me it’s easier to do it at this stage.
  • Use 3M radial bristle wheels or traditional bristle wheels  to get into any detail. This avoids dips, the flexible bristles are much more forgiving.
  • A bench polisher will give a quicker, higher quality finish than a pendant drill or micromotor. For larger items like medals, it is often easier too particularly for large flat surfaces.

Polishing tricky flat surfaces

Unitized Points, Moleroda’s Answer to the Roll Sander?

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We’ve been having a little experiment with Unitized points to see how they would fit in on the Jewellers bench.

Now certainly one of my favourite tools is the roll sander, I like to use them for softening edges and blending the solder join inside rings. They’re particularly popular in batch production as they go on and on, well that is unless you try and sand something really sharp and it cuts through several layers! We wondered…what is our equivalent?

roll sander

Unitized Points are used a great deal in the field of precision engineering. They take on even the hardest metals. Commonly for taking out machine lines, blending them. This is exactly what we do with jewellery before polishing, preparing the metal so that you remove as little material as possible in the polishing stages.

Unitized

The beauty of these little points is that although they are fast cutting, eliminating the need for moving up the grits, they leave a smooth finish from which to polish up from. You could move straight on from this stage to polishing with Tripoli or using a radial wheel in 220g (Red).

The points themselves are hard, so you don’t eat into the point running along sharp edges. I like to keep it moving so as not to create dips. The point itself can be shaped against an old file if you want it pointed, rounded or even thinned down. Remember that it will cut steel so make sure it isn’t your best vallorbe file!!

See our video here—–> Unitized Points